PASSIONATE RATIONS

Once again, I am reminded that the best food can come from the least promising looking venues.

The strip-mall setting of Great Wall restaurant in Florence, Massachusetts, made me avoid it for a long time. The ambient flourescent glow from the neighboring Brooks pharmacy (now Rite-Aid) cast less-than-appetizing light upon the already humble frontage of the restaurant. Besides, bad Chinese restaurants in just such settings are a dime a dozen in New England.

Still, it was close to home, so my spouse convinced me to try it. “Take out,” he said. “So you’ll be at home and can eat something else if you don’t like it.”

I conceded. He returned home with a brown bag of steaming fragrant food and a story to tell.

“Chef Yan likes it,” he goaded. Chef Martin Yan apparently is a fan of the establishment, at least that’s what the article posted on the wall of the vestibule indicated (as does the press on their web site).

So, too, did the article note that the restaurant offers two menus: one offering more standard-fare Chinese (at least what is typically seen in most American Chinese restaurants outside of larger cosmopolitan areas) and the other a gourmet version offering things not often seen, like salt-and-pepper squid. My spouse chose the gourmet offerings.

“Well then,” I thought, “I guess I better try it.”

My first bite of that squid convinced me. This was no ordinary Chinese restaurant.

Tonight, I’m making a return trip, one of many since that first tentative take-out experience.

Great Wall offers great food at a great value. Offerings range from $6 lunches to $15 house specialty entrees. Of particular note, are the more unusual and tasty gourmet offerings, such as the salt-and-pepper squid already noted and mei fan (Singapore-style noodles). Their service is quick and efficient, their ingredients fresh and often local. Order take-out and it will be ready within ten minutes.

I was thrilled when I learned that they even offer dim sum on Saturdays. Meaning “heart’s delight,” dim sum is a great way to spend a leisurely brunch with friends and family. The hosts roll around carts to each table with a variety of small Chinese snacks from which to choose, such as steamed dumplings, scallion pancakes, shrimp balls, and delicate pastries. Cost is tallied at the end by reference to the items chosen.

So, as I embark on a night out with friends, I thought I’d share this somewhat hidden jewel with you, my friendly readers. It’s at 140 Pine Street, away from downtown’s main drag. You’ll find it next to the Rite Aid, across from the huge white former factory known as the Arts & Industry building.

Note of advice: Don’t let the setting fool you. You can’t judge a restaurant by its façade.