PASSIONATE RATIONS

While in Germany, do as the Germans do:  drink beer.  Indeed, beer in Berlin was cheaper than most sodas, so we partook often, particularly of the Weiss biers.  The exploration led us to some extraordinary discoveries.

Upon an inquiry into best places for beer drinking, a local recommended Aufsturz, a contemporary “bier-garten” offering over 120 different beers for the consumption of a thirsty public.  If this is what the burgeoning East Berlin has to offer the future, watch out world!  It is a happening little place on a busy strasse.  Sticking to the German/Belgian brands, we tried the following in several rounds:

Rothaus Zäpfl:  This hefeweizen hails from Hoch Schwarzwald and boasts a creamy yellow appearance and rich, yeasty aroma.  It is sweet, but rich.  Not a trace of bitterness hid within its liquid confines—which is the way I like my hefeweizen.

Flensburger Weizen:  The Flensburger proved a darker beer than the Rothaus, not very sweet and with a slight bitterness.  It was hearty and complex, but I favored it less than the Rothaus because of the bitterness.

Hoegaarden Wittbier:  This brew was very light and fruity, with much less body than the two preceding.  For this, it was quite refreshing, a perfect summer beer.

Hopf Eis-Weissbier:  Again, this brew was light and airy, with an evanescent and unexpected aroma of coconut.  It was mellow to taste and easy to quaff.

But the most memorable beer of the evening was:

Schenkerla-Rauch Weizen Dunkle:  Before visiting Germany, I had no idea that hefeweizen came in dark (“dunkle”) varieties.  Very exciting.  And this was a very dark brew.  I first became aware of its presence when I glanced over at my spouse, who had just tasted it, for his opinion.  The look on his face was very odd.  He appeared extremely puzzled and continued to look perplexed even as I repeatedly asked “Well? How is it?”  and then “What’s wrong?”  I wondered if he was having some sort of stroke.  He handed me the glass.  One whiff and I knew.  “It smells like bacon!” I exclaimed.  Upon tasting it, I exclaimed again: “It tastes like bacon!”

Now, perhaps the thought of liquid bacon turns your stomach.  In this context it shouldn’t, as the beer was actually quite tasty (though drinking more than one in an evening is probably out of the question).  It turns out that “rauch” means “smoke” and this Weizen was a deep smoky flavor, unlike any brew I have ever before had.  If one can overcome the strong sensory allusions to bacon, this brew’s smokiness really complements its wheaty undertones.  But you have to pay attention to it, because the “rauch” is quite imposing.

All in all, it was a very satisfying evening (especially for someone who will return to primarily vegetarian ways upon her return to the states and who has just learned she can get her bacon without the pork).

Try the foregoing and much more yourself by visiting your local importer or visiting Aufsturz at:

67 Oranienberger Strasse
Berlin-Mitte, Germany
Tel.: +49 30 28 04 74 07
E-Mail: kontakt@aufsturz.de