PASSIONATE RATIONS

As for Berlin food-ways, I would have to recommend a walk down Oranienberger Strasse (or “Orangeburger” as we liked to mangle it).  It’s a happening thoroughfare in the former East Berlin district of Mitte.  The street is peppered with hep little bistros, cafes, art galleries, bier gartens, french fry (pommes) huts, and purveyors of a variety of kebap (or “kebab”).

Imbiss (a word for “fast food” establishments) are ubiquitous throughout the city and none more so, it seems, than the Turkish counters serving beef, chicken or lamb kebabs.  As an American, the word “kebab” brings to mind skewers of meat and vegetables.  The only skewer related to döner kebap, however, is the large metal one staked vertically through the middle of a huge cylinder of seasoned meat.

The cylinder continuously rotates in front of burners.  Order a döner and the meat is sliced off the cylinder and into a warm pita-like sandwich pocket, along with a variety of other ingredients, while you watch.

I experienced my first döner at a window near the #20 block of the Strasse and came back the next day for more.  Ordering it with everything (“alles”), we were returned an overstuffed package with garlic sauce, an herb sauce, something hot, red and green cabbage, onions, lettuce, tomato, cucumbers, and—of course—the meat.  It was an extraordinarily delicious combination. Ordering a döner “mit pommes” (with fries) is all the rage, potatoes being a German staple.

For 2.20 Euros, this was by far the best meal deal in town.