PASSIONATE RATIONS

Molasses can kill.

On a warmish winter day in the early part of the twentieth century, Boston’s North End found this out.

Molasses, at that time, was America’s sweetener.  A distilling company was storing the stuff in multi-million-gallon storage tank on Commercial Street.  On January 15, 1919 (notably one day before the 18th amendment prohibiting alcohol production was ratified), the tank ruptured, sending over two million gallons of viscous brown goop into the streets with enough force to break steel girders and knock over buildings.  Twenty-one people died that day and over 150 were injured.  The lingering mess was so pervasive that, legend has it, the sticky-sweet smell still rises from the ground on hot summer days.

I bet no one who was there ever ate molasses again.  Indeed, with the rise of corn syrup it has fallen from extensive use since then, which is too bad.  When it’s not running people down in the streets, it has many virtues.  Molasses is an excellent source of calcium, magnesium, potassium and iron.  And flavor.  Best known now for adding its special taste to holiday desserts like gingerbread and others, it can also be used in savory dishes.  Adding it to a stir fry, for instance, slightly sweetens the ingredients, really drawing out the flavors.  And, although I have yet to try it, I suspect it makes a fabulous glaze for meats (duck, ham…sigh) and winter squashes.

So, yes, molasses can kill, but only under highly unusual circumstances.  When cooking, it can add life to your dishes.  Live a little.  Take another taste.