There is a political-social movement known as “eco-feminism” that explores the link between the historical oppression of women and humankind’s degradation and domination of nature. I first learned the term in an environmental ethics course I took many years ago and was startled by the view provided by this particular filter for understanding the world’s complexities.
Ultimately, life is about applying our closely held theories to the way we live our lives, including its intimate details, such as the food we eat. This is the lesson of Bloodroot.
Bloodroot is a feminist vegetarian restaurant in Bridgeport, Connecticut. I first heard of the eatery in 1992, when I went with a friend to visit a mutual acquaintance who had become a chef there. I only vaguely remember that visit, mostly by the snapshot in my head of the feminist and lesbian literature that decorated the walls of the lavatory and the cute little feminist bookstore attached to the restaurant.
My parents live quite near the place, so it’s something of a puzzle why I hadn’t returned until a couple of weekends ago, particularly since I’ve been a feminist (read: “someone who believes in social, political and economic parity for women and girls”) for as long as I can remember and have always, even when a card-carrying meat eater, enjoyed vegetarian fare.
Suffice it to say that I didn’t think a feminist vegetarian restaurant would appeal to certain members of my immediate family. Imagine my surprise when my mom, in gracious consideration of my spouse’s and my vegetarianism, suggested we go there. I readily agreed. Now one rich slice of parsnip pie later, I can say I’ll definitely return more quickly the next time.
The restaurant is tucked into a residential enclave along Long Island Sound. If you didn’t have directions, you’d never guess it was there. The building is, on the outside, reminiscent of old-timey Cape-Cod beach cottages. I couldn’t help feeling as if I’d stepped back into the 1970s as I got out of the car; the very air of the place causes one to expect long hair and bell bottoms and the unrestrained social energy of that vibrant and explosive time.
Entering through the front door, a tiny bookstore occupies space to the left. In front of you is a large window opening onto the kitchen. To the right is the wide-open space of the restaurant, featuring high, beamed ceilings and peppered with mis-matched tables and chairs. The walls are covered with black-and-white and sepia-toned pictures of women that would be at home in the Victorian age. Though a Saturday evening, the surroundings were relatively quiet, with only three or four couples seated in the dining area and a couple of larger groups occupying the open space.
Bloodroot offers a unique dining experience. The seasonally-changing menu is handwritten on a chalkboard above the window that looks into the kitchen. Beer and wine is on a handwritten menu next to the door and features organic wines. Customers order their meals at a small desk next to the entrance before being seated. If you want bread or dessert, you have to order that separately too. On this night we were honored to be attended to by one of the restaurant’s founding matriarchs, Selma Miriam.
We ordered our food and a 2005 organic pinot noir from Oregon’s Cooper Mountain winery and took our seats. My partner and I ordered, to share, a seaweed and watercress salad.
For entrees, and because it seemed the perfect dish to say goodbye to the long and dreary winter, I ordered the parsnip pie with a house salad. My partner ordered the feijoada (Brazilian black beans and rice with kale, spices, lemon-pepper hot sauce, and manioc—a grain-like meal made from dried cassava) and, for dessert, their cheese plate. My mom ordered the Mulligatawny soup and a salad, my dad the Thai “chicken” stir fry and a slice of banana cream pie. My brother, ever the picky eater, ordered only a house salad.
Although my mom found her salad disappointing, expecting more than greens, I found my house salad fresh, with a satisfyingly light and tasty dressing. However, I expected more from the seaweed/watercress salad. Although it was presented beautifully, the watercress was less tangy than I expect of the usually potent little green and, since I’m used to seaweed at my fantastic local Japanese restaurant, my standards are high for seaweed.
However, my spouse and I found our entrees extremely flavorful and satisfying. The feijoada was beautiful, with dark onyx-like beans and an enticing aroma that didn’t disappoint upon tasting, bringing forth visions of colorful Latin American celebrations. It probably doesn’t hurt that rum is used in the recipe.
My parsnip pie came as an unadorned triangle on a light blue plate. As a French Canadian, I was reminded of the pork pie my mom used to make when we were kids. This was as rich and filling, though the flavor was completely different. I love parsnips in most formats, but this was one of the most interesting I’ve seen. The crust was thick and flaky and the filling slightly sweet, with hints of peanut, onion and ginger.
Unfortunately, for entrees, my mom also proved least satisfied with her meal, indicating the soup was bland. That being said, I note my dad ate all of his stir-fry before I had a chance to try it, so I’m assuming it was good. It certainly looked and smelled great. The cheese plate came with a nice array of several cheese, which my spouse refused to inquire about so, dear reader, I don’t have more information for you on that, except to say it’s worth a try. And the banana cream pie was fantastic, totally unlike the instant-pudding versions you often see. This was full of real slices of banana bathed in creamy white softness. It tasted of fresh bananas with a tangy side note. I’d go back just for that.
Despite some disappointments in the meal, as noted above, this place is worth giving a try, if only for the experience. Overall, I found the meal satisfying on several levels—for its food and for its principles.
And if you’re interested in finding out more, Bloodroot just released two cookbooks for your culinary foray into eco-feminist cuisine.